After reading on Wikivoyage about a train ride from Curitiba to Morretes that is supposed to be amazing we decided to try and find a solution to squeeze this into our schedule. With the weather report somewhat ambiguous about if it is going to rain or be sunny in Florianopolis which is our next destination we decided to book an extra night on our hostel here in Curitiba and do the daytrip to Morretes.
Online sources gives that the train is cheaper on the way back from Morretes (more on this later), there is a bus that takes about 45 minutes and is very cheap and last but not least it is important not to miss eating the barreado which is meat that has been cooked in a clay pot for about 24 hours. Also it is possible to go down the river in the village by the means of inner tubing (riding a larger inner tube).
We read that a bus is available at 11:00 from Curitiba and it costs 17 BRL, when we arrived at the desk to buy the tickets we were advised that the ticket is 21 BRL, the trip takes 90 minutes and it leaves at 12:00. This meant arriving in Morretes at 13:30 and taking the train back at 15:00. The train is supposed to be the main attraction here, so we decided to do it anyway. So, we bought tickets for the bus.
Next up we arrived at the ticket desk for the train that was supposed to cost 55 BRL back to Curitiba in economy class we were informed that the tourist class is the only available one today. Not much to do, we already bought bus tickets and an extra hostel night. 79 BRL later we had tickets for both transports and one and a half hour to waste before the bus were to depart. If it departs on time!
We spent the time wandering through a nearby market hall that had all kinds of food for sale, and also a large organic section in which Linn found these beautiful vegetables.
Finally it was time to get to the bus, which departed perfectly on time! The bus took the road BR-277 which has some very beautiful scenic views.
We walked from the bus stop into the old part of Morretes where we found a restaurant serving the famous barreado.
We ordered the “tourist plate” which apparently is everything on the menu, and about three servings of each. The barreado was a good meat stew, but nothing that we felt was that extraordinary, maybe we were at the wrong riverside restaurant. We did have a really good time trying to figure out how anyone could imagine that we would eat all this food. I think we gave up after about a 10th of all of it.
Next stop: The train ride back to Curitiba!
The first hour of this train ride is both amazing and (for me) nerve-racking! This is a trip through a biotope known as atlantic rain forest which is very scarce nowadays. The train starts on an altitude of only a few meters above sea level, and reaches Curitiba at an altitude of almost one kilometer. Being afraid of heights as I am, the words “amazing view” always has a bitter aftertaste as it always means being faced with what can easily result in certain death. This said, this trip is totally worth it!
It is very hard to capture the fact that the train is passing a bridge, you feel like it is almost flying and you see amazing scenery for miles!
An amazing ride, a must if in Curitiba! It might be a better idea to take the more expensive train from Curitiba to Morretes and not the other way around, it is a three hour trip, and the hour closest to Curitiba is the least exciting. The dramaturgy would have been better with an ever increasing quality of views and excitement, and also me getting used to the heights!